Turning Macanese

This quirky ex-Portuguese outpost on the Pearl River Delta is often given the whirlwind day-trip treatment by visitors to Hong Kong. But being quieter, more relaxed and less expensive by far than its neighbour, Macau deserves more thorough exploration. Visitors adore the reminders of its colonial past – back lanes of crumbling European-style buildings, tiled street signs, mosaic pavements, a main square that wouldn't look out of place in Lisbon, and menus promising grilled sardines, bacalhau and vinho verde. Sadly, rampant development and shoreline reclamation has radically changed the face of this busy Chinese urban centre, but there are still corners of serenity – and plenty more to discover. The following is a selection – by no means comprehensive – of some of the best experiences that Macau has to offer.